How to Choose Your Perfect First Sewing Pattern
Choosing your first sewing pattern can be a daunting task. All those books filled with pictures, so many different brands and absolutely no idea how to choose the one you want. That’s why I’m breaking down every bit of information and knowledge you could need to make choosing your first sewing pattern simple and fun!
This is so exciting! I’m giddy every time I choose a new pattern so I can imagine how excited you are to get started!
Let’s get to it!
Consider where you are in your sewing journey
Did you just start sewing? Are you an experience pro? There are patterns specifically for you! It’s super tempting to pick a pattern without really looking at what it takes to construct it.
But choosing a sewing pattern for your first make is easy!
If you are just starting out, look for patterns labeled with “easy-to-sew” or something labeled with 2 hours on it. In my experience, these patterns have fewer curves and zippers and other extras that get in the way of finishing a project. The other thing to look for is how many pattern pieces are required for the specific piece. When there are more pieces, the project will likely take more time!
Don’t let difficulty or time be the reason you don’t finish your first project!
Simple lines and fewer of pieces make for a simpler project. Capiche?
Measure!
I know. You’re antsy to get to the fabric store! But this is a super important part of choosing a sewing pattern. Make sure you at least know your bust, waist and hip measurement. I promise you don’t want to pull out a measuring tape in the store to measure yourself in the store.
I mean, you do what you gotta do. But, having these memorized or on a sticky note or on your phone is gonna be insanely helpful!
You’ll thank yourself later, I promise. Now, get your booty to a craft store and let’s take a look at a pattern catalog!
The Pattern Catalog
When shopping at one of the big box craft stores you are typically going to find brands like Simplicity, Kwik Sew, McCalls and Vogue, among others. Their catalogs are, generally set up the same way. The only catalog that could really vary is Burda. (I would steer clear of Burda Patterns as a beginner. There aren’t seam allowances on the patterns and could really confuse you. It’s just one more thing to think about!)
1. Fashion Illustrations
The fashion illustrations are used to show all the different ways the pattern pieces can be used. So, in this pattern, there are 3 sleeve options and 2 neckline options. That makes for quite a few options without throwing all the fabric options into the mix!
2. Fashion Photo
Most patterns will also feature a photo example of one finished product. I LOVE the photos because you get a good feel for how the pattern should look when you’re finished. Plus, sometimes ruffles look really good in the illustration and not so hot in the photo. It gives you a better idea of whether you are going to like it or not!
3. Pattern Number
The pattern number is the number you need to know to pull the pattern out of the drawers. This pattern is Simplicity 8215, so if you wanted to pull this pattern to look at or purchase you would head over to the Simplicity cabinet. Then you’d find the drawer that holds number 8215 and pull it out. Easy peasy!
4. Price
The next important bit of info you’re gonna need from this page is the price. On this pattern, the retail price is $19.95. To which I say, are you kidding? I refuse to pay the retail price on a pattern. If there isn’t a pattern sale of some kind, there are so many coupons Joanns and Hobby Lobby (I just use the coupons from their mobile apps!) that it shouldn’t be difficult to get at least 40% off of your pattern.
But the money savings are in big pattern sales! I just bought a bunch of patterns for $.99. That’s a STEAL! And a few weeks before, I bought a bunch of patterns at $1.99 a piece. What I’m saying is, look for the sales. They exist and their gonna save you some serious cash!
5. Pattern Description
The text underneath the reference number and price is a base description of what is contained inside the pattern. For this one, it is a blouse pattern with neckline and sleeve variations. I have another pattern that says “Women’s Knit Leggings with Length and Seam Variations.” It is just an overall description of the pattern.
6. Sizing Availability
This is where you are going to find the beginnings of sizing. In the case of this pattern, there are two sets of sizes available. D5 has sizes 4-12 and P5 contains sizes 14-20. (We’ll get to choosing the size you’ll need in a bit.)
7. Line Drawings
The last tidbit of info you get in the catalog is a set of line drawings so you can see the details of the pattern better. You’ll see the front of the garments in the fashion illustrations. The line drawings fill in the rest, typically the backs of the garments and a front or two.
That’s it for the pattern catalog! At this point, just start flipping through the catalogs and getting a feel for the different styles you like.
Pro tip: Use your cell phone camera as a tool to help you narrow down your choice. Take a picture of the pattern with all the information available, like I did above. It’ll help you narrow down your choices when you start pulling patterns out of the drawers.
The Sewing Pattern Envelope
At this point you’ve taken a bunch of photos from the sewing pattern catalog, right? I go through phases where I only find 1 or two patterns that I’m drawn to and feeling like I need to buy the whole catalog. That’s normal! There are new patterns every season and some trends you’ll be drawn to and some you won’t. That’s how fashion works!
So, using your little personal catalog of patterns you took pictures of on your phone, head over to the pattern drawers!
I like to pull out all of the patterns I took pictures of. The pattern envelope is a treasure trove of information and makes choosing a pattern way easier!
Let’s take a look at the info you are going to find on sewing patterns for clothing!
Envelope Front
1. Pattern Number
This should be somewhere near the top of the envelope. The top left corner is the most common place!
2. Sizing
Patterns have multiple sizes in each envelope, but not all sizes. The size range will help you figure out which pattern to purchase. This particular pattern has two options for sizing, D5 (Size 4-12) or P5 (Size 14-20). I’ll help you choose your size a little bit later, okay?
3. Brand Name
This tells you what brand the pattern is. At this point, you’ve got the pattern in your hand. And once you’re holding the pattern, the only reason you’ll need to know the brand name is to put it away or check to see if it’s on sale!
4. Fashion Illustrations and Photo
These are the same illustrations and photos that you saw in the pattern catalog, so these should look a little familiar!
Sewing Pattern Envelope Back
1. Pattern Number
There it is again! Top left corner. It’s like they don’t want you to forget the number, isn’t it?
2. Number of Pattern Pieces
Underneath the pattern number you’ll find the number of pieces that are inside that particular pattern. In this case, there are 12 pieces.
3. Description
This is the same basic description that you saw in the pattern catalog.
4. Recommended Fabrics
There are a slew of fabrics that you can use for your projects, but some fabrics aren’t necessarily suited to a project. Luckily, the pattern company does testing with each pattern and creates this handy list of fabric types that are well-suited for your pattern!
The fabrics the company lists will make your final product look most like the fashion photo on the front of the envelope. They take into account things like fabric drape, weight and use.
You can veer from this list, but I typically try to stay within the list so my project comes out exactly how I want.
5. Notions
The notions section of a pattern can be easy to skip over. It's definitely one of the section that I would hone in on if you are a beginner. Here, you’ll find whether or not you’ll need zippers, buttons, bias tape or other notions. An easier pattern will have less of these, but don’t let a zipper or button push you away from a pattern you love. Just know that these are skills you will have to learn to put the project together.
6. Body Measurements
Surprisingly, this is not the first section that you are going to look at when choosing which size you’ll need. This section recommends a size based on your bust, waist and hip measurements assuming you want the same design/wearing ease included in the number. For example, the body measurements section of this pattern recommends that I wear a size 20, but a size 20 would be much too large for me.
7. Pattern Size
This is a reference point for the rest of the envelope. After you’ve determined your size, you’ll use this section to figure out how much you’ll need for your particular size. So, all the information you need for a size 4 of this pattern is going to be in the column underneath the 4 in the pattern size section.
8. Fabric Yardage and Interfacing
After you’ve determined your size, the next few sections break down how much fabric and interfacing you will need to make your project. Making view C? Look for the sections labeled with C and find how much fabric you’ll need. This pattern, for example, you would need 5/8 of a yard for the yoke and sleeve, 3/8 of a yard for the yoke lining and 1/4 to 1/2 yard of fabric for the blouse. (depending on the width of your fabric)
9. Finished Garment Measurements
This is the section that I use to determine which size I’m going to make. When the measurement is useful!
The measurement in this section includes design and wearing ease. Ease is extra space built into a pattern for either a design reason or to make it more comfortable to wear. The thing is, everyone has different preferences for how they want their clothes to fit. For me, I like clothes that are well fitting and tailored, but not too tight. Based on this number, I took my measuring tape and remeasured my bust. My measuring tape sat at about 40 1/2”. So I let the measuring tape loose to 41 1/2” (finished size 12 measurements) and decided that there wouldn’t be enough space at the bust to be comfortable for me. So I loosened the measuring tape to the size 14 finished garment measurements.
I decided that this would be about the right size for me. A size 14 is a far cry from the size 20 I was recommended above, isn’t it?
10. Asterisk Key at the Bottom
These symbols indicate whether or not the fabric yardage you buy will be affected with or without nap. This pattern has nap built into the yardages listed.
Sewing Pattern Envelope Insert
1. Brand & Pattern Number
These are the same brand and pattern number that are on the pattern envelope. When the envelope and the directions get separated, this will help you put it back in the right envelope in the store or at home. And I promise the envelope is gonna get separated at some point!
2. Line Drawing Pattern Variations
The line drawings found in the sewing directions are the same ones found on the back of the pattern envelope. But, you get MORE of them! There are front and back drawings for every pattern variation.
3. Pattern Piece Drawings & Labels
In the case of this pattern, there are 12 total pieces. Some patterns will have only a few pieces and some will have waaaay more. It'll just depend on how complex or large the pattern is.
4. General Directions
These aren't essential for choosing your pattern, but EXTREMELY essential to read before you start sewing. So take note. You'll need these later.
5. Cutting Layouts
I don't always look at these when I'm considering a pattern, but it is a good idea to look at these to get an idea of what kind of fabric to purchase. Or to what layout you want to use for the fabric you already have. Either way, this is not essential to choosing your first sewing pattern.
Choosing a sewing pattern to start
Now that you’ve looked through the catalog and picked out a few patterns, it’s time to choose just one! Here are a few more things to take into consideration when narrowing down your choices to one:
Time - How long to do you want to spend on the project? A faster pattern will likely have fewer pieces, fewer steps and fewer notions.
Fabric - Do you already have a piece of fabric you want to use? Check to make sure that your fabric is listed in the recommended fabrics section!
Pattern Cost - You may have a few patterns out, but only one might be on sale. Like I said, get ‘em on sale or use a coupon!
Fabric Cost - Some days you might be looking to keep the project cheap and simple. Especially if you sew a lot! Look for sales or coupons and everyday fabrics like knits and quilters cotton.
Sales and coupons - I get coupons for notions and fabrics from Joann’s and Hobby Lobby on a regular basis. So, that's when I buy zippers, buttons, thread and other essential notions. Take a look at different sales ads in your area and see if you can save on your next project!
Remember:
Choosing a sewing pattern is a fun process! Take your time and enjoy flipping through the catalogs for the first time, take a few pics of the ones you like and start narrowing down your favorites! With your measurements, a little info about the catalogs and pattern envelopes, you are now armed with the information you need to buy your first sewing pattern. You’re going to be sewing in no time at all, my friend!
Still have questions? Come hang out with me on Instagram and send me your questions! We can work them out together!